First I wanted to make the parts on my own. So I bought a sheet of 2mm cardboard as well as a cheap 17mm hollow punch. I cut the card board in 40mm x 40mm pieces and and placed them on a small anvil for a strong and smooth underground. To preserve the tool I put another strap of cardboard below the one which is to be pierced.
With the first one or two bases things went well and I got nicely cut holes. But afterwards the hollow punch went dull although I watched not to hit the anvil...
The further results were a disaster. The cardboard was cut irregularly and the arches between the holes were torn. Maybe I could have managed to get six more or less working bases out of this stuff but I was really angry about the bad quality of the hollow punch.
However I searched the internet and found the website of a small English provider:
http://www.warbases.co.uk/ |
Diane and Martin offer a large variety of different tokens, bases, trays and lasercut buldings. Both are absolutely kind and it was a great pleasure to deal with them. I pointed out what I was in need and Martin made me the top bases exactly as I needed them for a good price and incredibly fast. If I had known this befor I wouldn't even have thought of cutting those pieces by myself...
However with this exellent material things went easy.
First I prepared the magnetic part of the base. Thereto I cut a 40mm x 40mm square of thin plastic card and fit the self-adhesive magnetic foil on it.
Now I glued the lasercut 2mm MDF top bases on top of the magnetic foil. It was cut in a way that leaves open for circles of 17mm diameter. Just large enough to take the 1ct coins the figures are based on.
Afterwards I covered the base with PVA glue and added a layer of usual sand. After drying I overlaid it with thinned PVA glue to prevent the sand from crumbling away.
Painting was done in four steps. First I base coloured the sand with Vallejo Game Colour Chared Brown. Then I gave some drybrushing with Vallejo Model Colour Saddle Brown, Citadel Snakebite Leather and Vallejo Model Colour German Camouflage Beige WWII. Thereby I was the more careful the lighter the colours went.
Lastly I decorated the bases with some scenic stuff I keep for that purpose:
- static grass
- field grass
- clump foliage
- lichen
Since I wanted to have the unit look coherent as a whole I put on the scenic material in a way that concealed the gaps between the coins and the trays a bit.
Additionally I tried to adopt that idea for the bases themselves. I applied some identical scenic stuff at the touching borders of the different bases.
The full unit seen from above... |
...and from the front. |
That's good work Monty, Warbases do good stuff as well!
ReplyDeleteLooks great and indeed Warbases are great! I wonder how they keep up with the demand.
ReplyDeleteChristopher
Splendid work, a great tutorial too.
ReplyDeleteA wonderful tutorial, and of great help to me, as my Napoleonics are also on 1c coins. I think I may have to get in contact with Warbases. Thanks for the tutorial, and the company details.
ReplyDeleteYip we use warbases for all our warbasing needs.
ReplyDeleteVery clever!!!!
ReplyDeletegreat stuff, I might have to try it myself one day...
ReplyDeleteWonderful post! I've been waiting on a base order (through a local shop) from Litko for over a month. Wish I knew about Warbases before I ordered 300... :/
ReplyDeleteI was thinking of doing a basing technique very similar to yours with the figs on individual bases, but I scraped the idea because I thought it would mess up the look of the unit bases. Your results is truly inspirational, and I might have to give it another thought.
Fantastic looking unit by the way. Can't wait to get going on my Prussians.
Jason
Very good tip !
ReplyDelete